henteco: Sweets in the Forest (actually Meguro)

Somewhere deep inside the neighbourhood of Meguro, Tokyo is a small cafe that makes a small number of small woodland creature-shaped cookies every day. And people come all the way here just for that! So I took cues and came early in the morning before they were all sold out.

henteco’s a tiny space and everything contained inside is right where they belong. Lots of wooden furniture, plant pots, cookies and cookbooks that teach you how to make said cookies.

It’s not even enough to get a parfait these days. You need a whole bear on top of it.

I really liked this raccoon. Unfortunately everyone else did too, so within twenty minutes of opening they were all sold out.

They also have normal food on the menu! Shaped like a bear again, but still relatively normal.

Otherwise they also have extremely normal, non-zoomorphic hot dishes.

 

This is their special animal basket, which got empty extremely fast. I had a fun time looking at each of them, but not so much choosing just one to take. I’d have taken them all if they didn’t each cost 400 yenBut make no mistake—they’re well worth it.

Comfort Food

Five minutes to November! It’s getting colder and I’m craving hot food. Or actually just food in general, because it’s been so busy ever since senior year started. Everything’s on my plate except good things to eat

I promise I’ll post something proper again soon! Summer was great and I have tons of places I want to show, so I’m going to jump back into the swing of things here real soon. That’s an onigiri lunch I had at a cafe in Omotesando a month or two ago, and I remembered how great it was just sitting in a cosy cafe eating a homemade meal.

It doesn’t always have to be whole meals either—sometimes it’s the tiny things like this ice cream I found in my supermarket that makes my day a little better.

Kanazawa in Summer

There’s a typhoon going on outside my window as I write this right now.

I went to Kanazawa in August, right in the middle of the summer when the heat wave was going strong in Japan. I remember wondering when this scorching torture would ever end, but I guess we’ve segued right into another kind of extreme weather. Anyway, Kanazawa was incredible all the same

It was my first time in Kanazawa, and my first time taking the night bus too. The bullet train was three times more expensive so we took the overnight bus, which only cost us ¥3000 and our backs and shoulders. Kanazawa’s a seven-hour trip from Tokyo, and we arrived at dawn when no one was around.

Actually no one’s really around Kanazawa in general. We decided to come here only because we figured Kyoto would be too crowded with tourists and so went with our second choice. Sorry Kanazawa, you come first in our hearts now

Our first stop was Higashi Chaya District, which is one of the better known places in this city. You’d think a famous spot like this would be packed, but not a single person was there! So we took our time taking pictures (and it was 7am, so we had lots of time).

It was great that the town was super empty and all, but the only thing was that all the stores were closed. We went around and around looking for breakfast and finally found this one cafe where we got ourselves a pile of fat fluffy pancakes.

One sweet thing led to another, and I got the famous gold leaf ice creamJust going to go ahead and add more sparkles in there. It was dazzling.

Quite possibly my favourite view—this one random hill in the middle of Kanazawa filled with old Japanese houses. I just really, really liked looking from the top of the slope at the landscape below.

Except it had a seriously steep climb.

Cooling down with some icy ramune soda

We also managed to get into the 21st Century Museum, which was so packed that we couldn’t even get in the first day we went. It took us the second try and a good half-hour head start before the place actually opened. But we made it in and got the money shot! Which in this case translates to the one shot that everyone is paying to enter and take in their famous swimming pool exhibit.

It was actually pretty cool.

And this was our guesthouseIt’s now up there in my favourite places to have ever stayed at. It’s owned by this nice old man who’s kept the traditional house for decades, and as soon as he arrived he sat us down in his garden for popsicles and rice crackers.

It really was a beautiful garden.

There are just lots of traditional places and streets all over Kanazawa like the Nishi Chaya District, which is like the east one but a lot narrower and hushed. This one had lots of turns and tiny corners and felt kind of secretive in nature.

But we managed to find this small cafe hidden behind some trees where they served us cucumber-flavoured ice cream and gold flakes. They may look old but Kanazawa is truly ahead of its time with all this avant-garde food.

I’ll be back someday in what is now my favourite city outside Tokyo

Kissa Housekibako: Back to the Girly Showa Era

I’ve gotten bad at posting every week, but really good at saving my streak at the last minute. And making excuses.

Recently I’ve been into kissaten—those old school Japanese coffee shops that were popular during the Showa era. 50s pop, idol posters, ice cream floats…everything’s stuffed into this small space like a little time machine back to the past. A time machine that serves good food.

Hosekibako’s made a name for themselves, but it’s hidden enough that there’re never too many customers crowding it on any given day (they can’t anyway, considering they have barely ten seats in there). It’s along a quiet street in Chitose-karasuyama, and took me a while to hunt around the neighbourhood for it. But once you get there it’s so pink and distinct you can’t miss it.

And inside is basically the Showa era. It’s like a museum of the past when huge perms and bell-bottoms were popular.

The stripy Meiji Ice Cream sign was cute; I wish I knew where I could get my own so I could bring it back to decorate my own place.

There’s even a bunch of old manga for customers to read while they’re eating. All nostalgic shoujo series, filled with the OG big-eyed heroines of those years.

And of course foodThey had the standard kissaten menu with all the typical things like toast and pasta and pilaf rice—and this extra fancy cinnamon banana toast that I ended up ordering.

The jewel in the crown here though, is their cream sodas—or ice cream floats, whatever you call them—that come with a big scoop of ice cream and the classic cherry. They had a lot of flavours in different colours and I would’ve tried them all if I could (even if I suspect they taste the same). This one was Pink Opal i.e. strawberry calpis soda with the sweetest shade of baby pink.

They did a great homage to the old Showa coffee shops; anyone would feel nostalgic even if they don’t actually have anything to be nostalgic for. It’s a great place to feel like a young girl enjoying the colours and music of that timeI sound like a grandma, but I hope you can tell how much I liked it.

Sakura Sweets 2018

Indeed it’s the end of May…but I’d really rather not wait till the next spring to come around again before posting all these things I ate.

Since it’s been a while and all how’s everyone doing? Before moving to Japan I always thought the May sickness was a total myth but it’s turned out to be pretty real, I kid you not. I can’t even remember what I did in April because all sense of time disappeared along with the sakura. But jpegs are forever, so I’m still left with all these pictures of sweets I ate (and maybe that weight I gained from them).

It was all just very pink. So much pink.

Once upon a time this year I actually had time to go to festivals and chow down endless sticks of mochi. They’re still my favourite, because they roasted right there in front of you and they’re all soft and chewy with the occasional roasted crisp.

This ice cream shop in Hiroo had a secret spring menu, so here’s a visually pleasing soft serve with the daintiest sprinkling of sakura powder and flowers.

The star of the season was definitely this one donut from Siretoco. Some sweets are just born for Instagram greatness

More pink mochi! I got this from 7-11, who persevered till the very end and kept these on the shelves well after cherry blossom season was over.

And this was my piteous attempt to be decorative. I tried hard to be creative and make a sort of hanami scenery on my toast, but the sakura marshmallows turned out a lot fatter than I’d thought (definitely not like the picture on the package) and it all just became a little blobby. But effort should not be wasted, so here it is

See you next week (maybe?!)

Photobook Diner Megutama: Feast for the Stomach, Feast for the Eyes

I used to get mad if I didn’t keep up with my posts every week, but now it’s come to the point where I feel like I deserve a medal if I remember to update before the month is over…okay, no. I’ll try harder.

Recently I haven’t been going to a lot of places, but yesterday I went to a new cafe for the first time and I liked it so much I’m posting about it right away.

写真集食堂—Photobook Diner Megutama, a small cafe in Ebisu, Tokyo that’s essentially a cafe and a library all in one. It’s not just any kinds of books either but specifically photo books by hundreds of photographers from the famous to the obscure. I could spend hours looking through photo books so that’s what I did here. The next best part is the food, all simple homemade stuff made right there in the kitchen in front of you by the sweetest ladies. It’s like coming home to three moms.

I ended up coming here that day because plans got cancelled and I suddenly had nothing to do and no one to meet, so I made the trek all the way to Ebisu and walked a good distance before I found their sign off the main road.

Here the walls are covered with books and more books carefully lined up by chronology of publication, so you know exactly which decade you’re heading for. That day I picked out more than ten books from the contemporary end and sat for ages looking at everything.

I found my favourite photographers and photographers I’d never heard of before. It was all very worth it, because I paid only about ¥1000 for a whole meal and (since it wasn’t crowded at all) they let me take all the time I wanted after that just reading while popping back on occasion to give me more hot tea. I would honestly just move right in

The Nicest Cat-loving Cafe Owner in Tokyo

I’m writing this in a state of denial now because summer is ending and the new semester is just around the corner. I think it’s because I had so much time to myself and went to so many places (Home! Disneyland! Bali!) and now it’s jarring to sit myself back in the classroom.

But I’m sure I’ll be over it by the end of the week, so time to get cracking.

One of the places I went to recently was Kuroneko-sha, a small cafe near Machiya station in Tokyo. And I really want to talk about it because I had such a special time in that place and the cafe owner was one of the kindest I’d ever come across. He really likes cats by the way, which is why the cafe’s name literally means Black Cat House.

It’s a cozy space and very much like a kitchen straight out of a typical home…which I guess it kind of is. It’s sandwiched in the middle of a residential area, so it’s small and along a quiet street.

When I came and sat down at the cafe myself I realised that somewhere I’d gotten a cut on my leg (that’s another story I’ll never know about lol). It was a pretty big one, so the owner noticed me cleaning it up and offered me a bandage. Which was such a nice gesture of him, but I got kind of embarrassed and just said I was fine

And then he gave me cookies to eat while waiting for my food. (MY HEART)

I got the special Neko Musubi set, which came with two huge cat-shaped rice balls, miso soup and an even huger plate of side dishes. I need the world to understand how great this is, because this massive portion cost me only ¥750 and it was everything I could want in a meal

Grilled fish, fried chicken, pork, salad…you know a cook is generous when the side dishes are heavier than the actual main. Everything was cooked on the spot, so it was all hot and juicy and completely filling. After eating this I got full even before starting on my rice balls

Even the miso soup almost stole the show. I’ve never had a bowl that had more ingredients inside than the one I had at Kuroneko-sha. It’s usually just miso soup, and maybe a few scraps of seaweed and tofu, right? But there were so many other ingredients inside it was almost like opening a gift. A gift of meat and veggies.

So that was my meal! Or so I thought, until I got a surprise at the end.

He gave me scones on the houseAnd they’re cat-shaped. Cat-shaped. This is the way to my heart right here. I was more overjoyed than full at this point so I ate it all even though I was stuffed past the point of no return. And I was amazed at how generous he was in giving so many treats. My random little injury probably had something to do with it, but I really think he’s just a kind person who wants to make his customers feel good in his cafe. He told me to come back again someday, but I didn’t need to be told because I was already planning on it

So that was my story! Of the owner of a small cafe who loves cats and made a girl’s day by giving her such a good meal and more. The place is called 黒猫舎, so check it out if you’re in town!

Smiley Omurice

This blog isn’t dead! And neither am I! Which is a surprise, considering how much finals ravaged the last weeks of the semester. But anyway that’s all done with, so I’m ready for summer vacation

Recently I’ve been really into making omurice. When I didn’t have time to go out and eat I’d just get out the pan at home and toss in a bunch of eggs and rice. It isn’t complicated—literally omelette and rice—and it’s even fun. For every artist there are sketchbooks, canvases, doodle pads…and then there’s a nice yellow omelette with a big surface for drawing in ketchup. Nutrition and entertainment all in one.

Now I really want to have people and just cook omurice for them and draw different faces.

And then this was the day I wanted to eat pancakes but couldn’t have any so put a square of butter on a bun and made it look like pancakes instead. I actually thought I was being pretty innovative with this one. But then it made me think I definitely want to eat pancakes.

I mean I do have time now, but then so do a few million other school kids on summer break. So we’ll see

Anyway I’m sorry I have to resort to just showing you pictures of my breakfast and lunch at home…I haven’t been going out recently so there hasn’t been much I could showBut I’m going to take a break now and hopefully rake in the good stuff. Watch this space!!

Mugimaru 2: Steamed Buns in a Secret Alley

More hidden places! I’m starting to spend my free time just digging these up around Tokyo.

I found this place called Mugimaru 2—a tiny cafe along a narrow alley in Kagurazaka that serves traditional manju.  Lots of flavours and lots of fillings; they’re all handmade by the lady owner and delivered to you straight from the steamer.

The first time I actually walked right past because I didn’t see the entrance shrouded in all that ivy. How’s that for a hidden spot?! It was kind of like a treehouse, but on the ground. What a mysterious feel. You can’t even go inside without crouching so you don’t hit the low door frame.

But once you’re inside it’s a real gem of a placeEverything’s cosy and worn out, with lots of knick-knacks spilling out everywhere. The owner decorates the space with things she received from customers, so it was fun thinking about where it all came from. There’s supposed to be a cat too, apparently, but it wasn’t there that day I went.

This is my favourite bit! A Mount Fuji wall panel, plus a little round table and cushions to make you feel like you’re having tea by Mount Fuji haha.

Like I said last week, the ice cream cravings are starting for real. I’ll trade up my usual tea for a matcha float if it means getting a big scoop of soft serve ice cream in it. The debate is, do I eat my ice cream before it melts or the manju before they get cold?

I ate the ice cream first. But even though the manju did cool off a little while waiting they were still soft and fluffy with some warmth left in the thick bean paste. I just really love anything sweet and squishable. Plus I got a good combination of flavours—uguisu bean paste and chocolate.

I haven’t had this much fun coming to a cafe in a while. Mostly because there weren’t any other customers, so it just felt like I was at home surrounded by plants and rugs and the smell of buns steaming in kitchen downstairs. It’s not the most pristine or modern of interiors, but it’s full of soulI mean, those cracks in the paint don’t come without years of history.

Kosoan: Hidden Japanese Tea House in Tokyo

We’re on the cusp of summer, which means I’m going to be consuming a lot of ice cream for the next few months till we’re back to sweater weather. And Japanese desserts in the summer are just so good at cooling you downI went to Jiyugaoka to check out the teahouse Kosoan, mostly because it’s such a beautiful place and also because I wanted to eat some anmitsu.

It’s quite literally hidden. The place is just so shrouded with greenery you miss it if you don’t pay attention. It was built in 1954, so the traditional aesthetic is off the charts. Sitting inside made me feel like I was visiting someone’s old Japanese house, complete with tatami and potted plants.

They served the daintiest slice of cake I’d ever seen. I can’t even remember what flavour it was because my portion was gone in two bites, but it was a good side to the strawberry smoothie. And that was kind of underwhelming, but that’s Japanese sweets for you. Less pizzazz, more comfort.

The anmitsu was the real starThere’s nothing more attractive than a bowl snugly packed with fruits, chunky red bean and a big scoop of ice cream. I love having lots of colours and different tastes and textures, so this was a winner for me.

I’d willingly travel to Jiyugaoka again just for teatime at Kosoan, because it’s such a pretty enclave tucked away in the streets (plus with good dessert to boot). Plus the neighbourhood has tons of things to do and see, so you could really just spend a few hours walking around and looking at the shops.